Turbo Algae Scrubber FAQs

Here are a few answers to some Frequently Asked Questions about my line of Algae Scrubbers.

Updated 1/9/2013

Added dimension and installation FAQ, and added the titles to the first line of each post (Tapatalk does not show post titles - only thread titles)

 

What LEDs do you use for the light fixtures?

Q:What LEDs do you use for the light fixtures?

I get name-brand LEDs from reputable distributors, selected to have the best spectrum for growing algae, and the highest output to maximize efficiency.

These LEDs have up to 20% more output than the same brand from other places, and in a completely different league when compared to off-brand or no-name LEDs. Make no doubt about it, these LEDs are the best bang for the buck you can find.

 

Do I need the cooling fans?

Q: Do I need the cooling fans?

The cooling fans are not necessary for proper operation of the scrubber fixtures. The heat sinks passively dissipate heat very effectively. They are part of the Maker's LED System and are included for anyone who wishes to use them.

It is important to note that you cannot wire them directly to 120V power, or to the driver (which supplies a constant current, not a constant voltage).

They are easily connected via a 12V wall power adapter with the correct plug fitting. I will be providing additional information as to where to get such an adapter, and I may offer this as an add-on in the future.

NOTE: If you do not have a power source for the fans, remove them. If the are not operating, they will tend to block passive convection.

 

How can I build the Maker's LED fixture myself?

Q: How can I build the Maker's LED fixture myself?

There are videos and tutorials available on the Maker's LED website. I will also be posting video of how I build this particular fixture.

You will need standard tools for preparing and assembling an LED fixture, such as:

• Wire Cutter/Stripper
• Soldering Iron
• Solder
• Screwdrivers
• Skill
• A few hours

You will need to:

• Pre-tin the LEDs
• Wire the LEDs
• Install the plug adapter on the LED Driver

You will NOT need to:

• Drill and tap the heat sink (I will drill the hole for passing the driver wire through)
• Use 2-part Thermal Epoxy, Adhesive or Thermal Pads
• Install waterproof electrical connectors (I will install these, as there is a special tool you need to do it right)

 

Why are there "Additional Options"?

Q: Why are there "Additional Options"?

In the past, I have only provided the base unit at the base price. Several of my customers have commented that it would be nice to have all the other necessary parts included.

Everyone has their system set up differently. It is impossible to provide a single "one size fits all" solution. Also, many people have extra plumbing parts and pumps sitting around.

Since I originally calculated time, material, etc and came up with a certain price, and this did not include all the other items one could possibly need, I decided to keep the base price tied to the base unit, then create options that can be added on if needed.

 

Why do I need one of these Drain Options?

Q: Why do I need one of these Drain Options?

You do not need either of these drain options for any of the Turbo Algae Scrubbers to operate properly. You only need to extend the drain straight down, so that it is terminated below the operating level of the sump/tank below it, preferably about 1/2" to 1" below the surface.

If you terminate the drain above the water surface, the unit may not drain properly (especially at higher flow rates), causing water to unnecessarily run through the side/emergency drain.

With the amount of flow needed for the scrubber to properly operate, and with the drain terminated below the water surface, the drain will generally run somewhat noisily and will eject bubbles into the sump. This is because the drain is constantly siphoning and purging, but it generally must do this in order to handle the amount of flow needed across the screen. One could reduce the flow until the drain was not making noise, but then the flow across the screen would not be enough for the filter to operate properly.

One of the unique design features of the L2 Algae Scrubber is that it can be configured to run in a "silent and bubble free" mode, and most importantly, it can be done safely.

Traditionally, the "closed-box" Algae Scrubber has had the major downfall of having an open drain in the bottom of the box which is constantly sucking air and/or gurgling, and which also ejects a large amount of bubbles out of the drain. This is an unavoidable set of circumstances inherent to the design and proper operation of a closed-box Algae Scrubber. This is not a problem if you have a sump area that adequately silences this noise and also incorporates baffles or sponges to reduce microbubbles. For those that find this to be a problem, the drain options provide the solution.

I discovered that the way to eliminate this nuisance is to place a valve on the drain and restrict the flow such that air is not sucked down the drain. The issue then becomes: what if algae grows so thick that it clogs the drain? The box can overflow if this happens. In fact, some users of closed-box scrubbers have experienced exactly this problem - without a valve on the drain.

The solution to this is the inclusion of the secondary drain. The secondary drain (also referred to as the "side" or "emergency" drain) is capable of taking the full water flow in case of a 100% blockage of the bottom drain. It should be noted that unless you have such a secondary drain, you should NEVER put a valve on a scrubber drain.

If you think this sounds somewhat familiar - you are probably right. Putting a valve on the main drain line in order to cause it to flow at the same rate as the input is exactly what is not on the siphon line of a "Herbie" or "BeanAnimal" type of overflow system. The side/emergency drain in this case also serves a very similar function. Preventing accidental overflow has always been a top priority.

 

Why do I need a "True" Gate Valve?

Q: Why do I need a "True" Gate Valve?

I refer to this as a "True" gate valve because it is what it sounds like - when it is open, it is like a 100% open pipe, and when you close it, a "gate" is ratcheted down just like an old castle gate.



This is NOT the same as a similar looking "Stop" or "Stop and Waste" valve, which is what you commonly see at most hardware stores.

 

When should I choose the Loc-Line drain option over the Gate Valve option?

Q: When should I choose the Loc-Line drain option over the Gate Valve option?

This option is good if:

• You want more directional control of the outflow
• Scrubber mounted on top of tank
• Drain plumbing will be mostly submerged (the gate valve has a metal screw holding on the knob)

The only drawback with this option is that the Ball Valve is a little harder to adjust, and assembling Loc-Line can give you a pretty good workout (and maybe a few bruises) if you don't have the special pliers.

 

Pump FAQ

Q; Pump FAQ

For the L2, the Rio Plus 1100 UL pump provides approximately 300 GPH to the screen at 12" of vertical head (more on this later).

For areas with limited space, you can also use the Rio 6HF. This is a smaller pump, and almost equally as powerful. The drawback is that it is slightly noisier, however it does come with a multi-level vibration isolator system. Price is TBD (likely $30)

For top-of-tank applications, I recommend the Cobalt MJ-1200 (formerly the Original Maxi-Jet 1200). The Maxi-Jet can be mounted inside the tank more easily, with the jet directed upward to the scrubber. Alternatively, any original Maxi-Jet 1200 will do the job here. I have not tested the Marineland version. It should be noted that the MJ1200 does not have as much resistance to head loss, so several tubing conversions should be made to minimize this loss, and the pump intake will need to be cleaned weekly. Price is TBD (Likely $40)

For the L3, the Rio Plus 1400 pump provides about 340 GPH to the screen at 12" of vertical head.

For the L4, the Rio Plus 1700 pump provides about 520 GPH to the screen at 12" of vertical head.

Generally speaking, the pumps I choose provide about 50-100 GPH (at the screen, without any growth) more than the general guidelines for waterfall Algae Scrubbers call for. This is because as algae grows on the screen, it will create some backpressure on the pump and reduce the flow. The pumps are sized to make sure that adequate flow will be maintained throughout the entire weekly cycle.

 

Why is Inlet Plumbing an additional option?

Q: Why is Inlet Plumbing an additional option?

In the past, I have not included tubing for the pump connection to the scrubber, because this is also an item that not every one needs, especially if they don't buy the pump.

The inline ball valve is from Bulk Reef Supply, and is to control flow to the scrubber, if necessary. Depending on the water level difference between the operating level of the sump and the centerline of the slot pipe, there may be the need to temporarily or permanently reduce flow. This is an inexpensive method of doing that.

 

What are the unit dimensions?

Q: What are the unit dimensions?

These dimensions do not include the lid, slot pipe, attached plumbing, or heat sinks.

The dimensions of the cross-section for each unit is the same: 6" wide and 7" tall

L2: Length = 9"
L3: Length = 12"
L4: Length = 15"

With heat sinks installed, the width of the unit is about 9".

The lid is about 3/4" tall; 1/4" material and 1/2" tall cross-braces. The thumb screws on the top stick up about as far as the lid (3/4")

3/4" bulkhead sticks out 1.5" off the bottom when installed.

The capped end of the slot pipe extends roughly 1.5"-2" past the end of the box.

The threaded end of the slot pipe extends the same distance, then a union and an elbow is added for a total length of about 6" from the end of the box.

 

How much space do I need to install and maintain the unit properly?

Q: How much space do I need to install and maintain the unit properly?

During each screen cleaning, you will need to remove the slot pipe assembly/screen and false bottom for cleaning. You need enough room to be able to lift the screen out, as well as reach inside the box to remove the false bottom and possibly remove some algae that sticks in the corners of the chamber, or wipe some algae off the clear windows.

You need approximately 5" of clearance above the top of the box (without lid) in order to lift the algae screen completely out of the box. This does not account for long strands algae that will be hanging off the screen. I would recommend about 7" of clearance (or a total of 14" from top of sump to bottom of tank stand/obstructions) for ease of use.

The MINIMUM CLEARANCE you would need in order to install any of the L2/L3/L4 units is about 9" (7" tall unit + 1.5" bulkhead + thumbscrews on top panel). This would give you enough room to disconnect plumbing from the drain and lift the entire unit up for removal during cleaning. This would be the worst-case minimum installation clearance. If you can't meet this dimension but still want a unit, consider running the unit on top of your tank, or remote to the sump area. This is safe to do with a simple modification to the false bottom and the use of a modified 1" ABS bulkhead on the side drain, which seals both drains 100%. The uniseal bulkhead can sometimes allow water to get past it (but very little - only enough to cause a little salt creep over time, if any)

The RECOMMENDED minimum clearance (installed) is 11". This gives you 4" above the box (without lid) to partially lift the screen out, then either partially 'roll' the screen around the pipe, or place a small cutting board on top of the main body and slide the screen on to it so that it can be taken away without dragging wet algae all over the heat sink (which is not a big deal, even if it does happen). You can get by with less than 11", and even with 9" of clearance you can probably get the screen out, but removing the false bottom may be problematic, and it does need to be removed and cleaned periodically. One heat sink may need to be removed so that the thumbscrew can be taken out to get it out of the way during cleaning.