baddiesel's new L2 install

There's not a lot to post, but thought I'd "chime-in" as a new member. I completed the installation yesterday, and I feel I know enough to be barely dangerous. Per my wife's suggestion (I rarely listen to her), I reduced the water flow on the Rio 1100+. The water curtain was flowing a bit much, according to my wife. Currently, the LED light timer is set for 18 hours "on", and 6 hours "off". Now, I'll have to just wait and see what happens. I love the Rio pump, it's very quite. My goal is to reduce/eleminate water changes, and eleminate GHA & cyano from my D.T. *Cheer's....

 

Thanks Turbo, I'll make the adjustments on the time when I return to my residence. I'm really impressed with the new ATS, it's a precise-constructed device!!! The sump area in my cabinet look's like some mad scientist's laboratory.

 

Now for another update: No visual growth of algae, or brown diatoms. Photo period has been reduced to 9 hrs per day (eg 1600-0100). I have reduced the water flow on the screen, but I'm having trouble with the new version-modified gate valve. I still have a ton of bubbles. The water level rose inside the box, but has not overflowed into the secondary drain. The flow out of my "main drain" is very-very strong. Shouldn't I be able to reduce, if not eliminate the bubbles coming out of the drain??? Thanks in-advance for your answers. *As a side note, I've been performing ~20% water changes weekly, in effort to "clean-up" my tank. I have installed brand new filters in my R.O./D.I., my water barrels are clean, TDS is 2 on the R.O. side, zero on the D.I. side. All frozen cubes are rinsed with RO/DI water prior to feeding fish.

 

Hey thanks Turbo, I've got a filter sock and some mesh bags somewhere in my "historical archives", and I'll install it. Have a nice Father's Day weekend!!!

 

A quick update: I observed a light brown algae film in the corners of the screen last night. Currently, I've adjusted the timer to operate the LED lights 4 hours "on", and 4 hours "off".

 

"Houston, we have lift-off". I checked the ATS last night and I've got 2 brown water trails. There's some hints of green among the brown stuff. I haven't mastered the use of uploading photos on Tapatalk, but will do some research. I guess it's time to perform a light rinse-off, using RO/DI water and a light "finger-rub-off"??? Do you think I need to increase the flow on the pump?

 

Yesterday, I cleaned the screen for the first time. I had to use a brush, as my fingers were insufficient for algae removal. There's quite a bit more green than brown stuff growing, and it was impossible to rub off with your fingers. That's all for now, I'll keep you updated as events progress.

 

Been very busy, sorry I haven't posted in awhile. I've been keeping up with weekly water changes, and testing water parameters. My ATS is now producing larger "tufts" of green turf algae-I think. It reminds me of boiled spinach. It's actually difficult to remove. At any rate, it's making great progress, cultivating itself on the screen. Today, I removed a small shrimp (1/4") during the ATS screen cleaning. My yellow wrasse went crazy chasing his gourmet treat. I implemented BRS-high capacity GFO to the phosban reactor, in efforts to reduce my phosphates, as the weekly 20-25 gallon water changes have no effect. Additional allied support have been mobilized in support of this war on GHA, cyanobacteria, and diatoms. The new recruits include: 50 cerith snails and 5 fuzzy chitons. I'll keep you posted as to their appetite for GHA (fact or fiction). Cheer's!!!

 

Just my thoughts, and another update from yesterday. My water parameters are all decent, except for phosphate. The API test still indicates 0.25 ppm. I will be ordering a Hanna Checker shortly. My arsenal of critters haven't touch the GHA.....? I know there hasn't been sufficient time for the GFO to accomplish anything, but I kinda thought that was the purpose for the ATS(?). I thought that if I added this device, and it grew green turf algae, and (with time) my phosphate level would decrease. Now, I'm under the impression that this device is used to "maintain" zero nitrates & zero phosphates, if given the correct "atmosphere" of parameters to accomplish the goals intended. I'm wondering if I might have to remove my LR that have sprouts of GHA on them and bath the rock in bleach, muratic acid, etc. Then, in order to rid my sand bed of cyano, I have to remove the sand, and bath it in bleach to kill it. I'm getting tired of weekly 20g-25g water changes, now the implementation of an ATS, now the addition of GFO and critters, and to no avail, my efforts are fruitless. I would have a better attitude, if I could see some progress. If I need to continue this workload, I need to rethink my goals and try just a Fish Only approach. I was trying to reduce the workload, not increase it.

 

System parameters: pH: 8.06, Temp: 79.2F, Sal: 1.024, Alk: 161.1ppm, Ca: 460ppm, PO4: 0.25ppm, Mg: 1320ppm, NO3: 0ppm. I cannot understand why my pH is so low. I dose 30ml of Ca & Alk daily.

 

Sorry folks, I was just "venting". I get frustrated when I don't see progress. I'm thinking about adding a kalkwasser reactor for top-off water, in order to raise my pH. I was thinking that phosphates have"leached" into the LR, and by raising my pH, this would help to lower the PO4 level. This idea is based upon an article written by Randy Holms-Farley. I've been very careful with feeding, my RO/DI water indicates a TDS of 2. I can't begin to tell you how clean I keep everything, including the sump. The only quick option I could think of, is removing the LR with GHA and soaking those pieces in muriatic acid, rinse & re-cure with saltwater. The sand should clean easily with bleach water, rinse with a garden hose, then rinse with RO/DI. From what I can tell, unless I wait 5-6 mos. These are the quickest "fixes" that I can execute.

 

Okay, I'll give it some time.

 

Just a quick update, as I haven't posted anything in awhile. For past month, I have had exceptional growth. My NO3 & PO4 readings have been consistently zero but the GHA has still been thriving. Once a week, water changes and once a week, and once a week I hand pick the GHA off the rocks. In my quest to battle GHA, I have dispatched a large army of CUC. They haven't made much progress, so I have deployed 2 more tactics. One is the implementation of another sump with a plenum, 4" deep crush coral bed & a ball of Chaetomorphia and a bright LED light. Next, I dosed my Mg up to (currently) 2010 ppm with Kent marine Tech M. I will maintain this (no w/c) for 2 weeks and see what happens. Before I bumped up the Mg, I thoroughly cleaned the ATS screen. After one week, algae is already starting to grow back on the screen. I have not killed any livestock whatsoever, and the tank and sand bed actually look cleaner. I'll update you'll later.