hello Richie here looking for advice on a scrubber..

Welcome! I'm assuming you mean scrubbers, not skimmers

For a tank that size, I don't really see the need for larger than the L2, unless you feed an absolute ton and have no other filtration.

 

The L2 would definitely handle your current load, and would be good for a 120 also. You can (and in some instances, should) add other filtration to complement the scrubber, like a small skimmer and/or some GAC, and you will get a very long way with that combination in a variety of situations.

 

I'm surprised you don't already have super clear water with what you are running - what problems are you currently experiencing?

 

Not sure what you are trying to show, that made me log in to my google account and then brought up a blank page like it was trying to load my non-existent webcam

 

The diatom algae on glass, chances are you will not get rid of that. But it might lessen it.

For particulates, this is where mechanical filtration comes in (filter socks). But it's not really a bad thing necessarily, just unsightly

 

Yes, running an algae scrubber will reduce your dependence on water changes needed for nutrient reduction. You still might need them for other reasons.

Dry rock vs live rock shouldn't matter. "a lot" of particulate matter is also somewhat relative. Are you sure it's not microbubbles?

 

His design is completely different in the manner that the screen is sprayed with streams or water instead of using a waterfall from a slot pipe. I bought one of his EC2.0 units for evaluation. I try to get my hands on all different types of scrubbers whenever I can, just to see what my competition is up to in person. So far, I haven't seen any idea that I would consider copying, I have only seen my ideas copied and maybe tweaked a bit.

I have put much thought into the development of my unit, and have spent a lot of time revising it so that it is the best algae scrubber you can buy. Here is what I consider to be the advantages of my design over any other scrubber made by anyone else, not necessarily specific to any one manufacturer.

1) I use name-brand, high quality 3W LEDs. LED intensity is very important, as is arrangement, and brand quality (which is a minimal overall expense)

2) LEDs are adjustable intensity - you can start at low intensity for initial growth, then increase to full intensity once the screen is mature. My unit is designed for both stages.

3) The unit is capable of extremely high flow. This is important when placing the unit in a tank that is large in comparison to the rated capacity of the unit, or when placing the unit on a tank with a very heavy bioload. The main drain is 1.5" and includes a tuning valve for silent operation. The secondary drain is low on the side (just above the false bottom) and is 1.25". The function of my unit is set up so that the main drain can be "tuned" via the ball valve to run at or close to a full siphon, with a small percentage of flow can go through the side drain. The side drain also functions as an emergency overflow in the instance that there is a flow restriction through or on the way to the bottom drain. I have tested each unit at nearly 800 GPH of flow and the bottom drain was still valved back a bit, with no flow through the side drain (meaning the unit could actually take even more flow). When going to a higher flow rate, usually you want to increase the intensity of the LEDs at the same time. Hence the reason why item #2 is important

4) All plumbing connections (supply and drain) are sealed through threaded fittings and o-ring gaskets. All water input connections are either threaded PVC parts or hose barb connections, so there is no chance of any fittings coming apart or breaking off. There are also no bulkheads protruding into the box, which tend to restrict space and flow (my earlier units used bulkheads)

5) Slot pipe is easily removed by unscrewing the threaded cap on one end and lifting the screen out. You do have to shut off the water, but one should never remove a screen full of algae while the water is running anyways, because this will cause the built-up algae mat at the bottom of the unit (on top of the false bottom) to pull apart and detach, causing algae to get flushed down the drain and into your tank/sump.

6) There are no obstructions inside the box. It is easy to remove the false bottom and clean. Algae will build up in the bottom corners of the box and on the clear windows, which does need to be removed with a toothbrush now and then

7) My new design, which uses custom LED boards, disperses the heat so evenly that no fans are required, unless there is absolutely zero convective air flow in the space where the unit is housed. I have left these running all day long and they are room temperature to the touch.

8) My new lid design prevents the lid from warping over time.

 

Remember that you do get what you pay for.

Forgive the thread mess on this site, it's in my to do list. The L2 is $399 which includes everything but the pump. Shipping is my cost +$20 because I spend a lot of extra time to pack it properly, I use a lot of packaging material to ensure that each unit arrives in tact.

Out of over 150 units shipped, I've only had one show up damaged. Unfortunately, that was today!!