Introducing the new Turbo Algae Scrubber! (Rev 4)

Oops missed this, but you got it right - 400-450 GPH, with @Robert helped answer in a convo thanks

 

Some more pictures










Slot pipe is formed to fit into cutout on Growth Chamber so it doesn't rotate. Velcro added for vibration isolation.



The slot pipe come without fittings bonded to it, so you may configure it for the direction of the water source and the connection fittings. A thread/thread union is included as well as a slip/thread straight adapter and elbow adapter, a thread/barb straight adapter and elbow adapter, and an end cap. A slip/slip union is not included. It is important to note that in order to bond fittings to the slot pipe, you must use transition cement (green type) and you must not apply primer to the ABS slot pipe.

Example configurations

 

Plastic parts and light fixtures (not completed in this pic)



The growth chamber is made of clear polycarbonate and it almost completely indestructible. It has guides molded in for the false bottom (shown in pic above) as well as a barrier separating the main area of the Growth Chamber from the Emergency Drain section. I will also be producing snap-on extensions to this barrier for enhancing 3D growth. The seal extensions have glands (grooves) for holding a total of 4 heavy duty o-rings (3/16" diameter cross section) which provides a dual seal on each drain to ensure no leaking past the seal. The dual o-rings also serve to keep the growth chamber positioned straight up and down within the base for a perfect fit, every time. A small tube of silicone grease (reef safe) is included.

The bottom of the main section of the Growth Chamber has a draft to it, so that when you shut off the water flow in preparation for cleaning/harvest, the water will not pool on the bottom and then pour out as you maneuver the Growth Chamber out of your sump area. This means you don't have to worry quite so much about holding your hand under that drain extension.



In the above 2 pics you will notice there is a strip of velcro attached to the ends of the Growth Chamber as well as to the inside of the End Cover Plates. This is due to one of those "well, that' didn't turn out exactly as I had hoped" type of things: the End Cover Plates don't lock into the Heat Sink Groove in the base and at the top of the J-channel just quite right. To fix that, I am having this part redone with an offset tab to grab the edge of the J-Channel. Everyone will receive this replacement part when it is ready. Until then, the velcro works to hold the End Cover Plate in position and it is not difficult to remove and replace.

Here is the underside of the Base - it has ribbing added for structural support against flexing. The ABS may be drilled to secure it to support braces with, for instance, zip ties or nylon thumbscrews.



The base with J-channels bonded in place (comes assembled) showing the Growth Chamber removal access hole. Generally this is not needed, but if you forget to keep the o-rings lubricated or a suction develops between the o-ring seal sections, you might have a little trouble getting it to initially release. Placing your thumb on the edge of the base and pushing up on the growth chamber from below easily breaks the seal so the growth chamber can be lifted up and slid out the end



The pipe extensions match 2" PVC pipe dimensions. Included are (2) 2" x 1.5" slip/slip adapters which can be friction fit or solvent welded (again, using transition cement with no primer applied to ABS Base)



The emergency drain (on end) only need a section of 1.5" pipe extending down to the water level below the unit (just above or no more than 0.5-1" below the water surface). The primary (center) drain will have a valve (not shown) and a detachable bubble blocker. In the past, I used a filter sock hung from the drain handle but this doesn't work extremely well, so I came up with this simple method using a 2" coupler with tapped holes for thumbscrews and a drawstring filter sock (all included)





You cut the pipe to length such that the end of the 1.5" pipe is below the water surface (at least 0.5" but not more than 1" - so that it pulls a siphon) then you tune the drain to a full siphon (outflow matches inflow) in order to silence the unit and reduce bubbles (bubbles will be reduced significantly as the screen matures). Then you slide the bubble blocker over the drain and tighten the thumbscrews and cinch the filter bag over the adapter. You can pre-tie the bag so that it slips over the thumbscrews wit little effort, but it won't fall off on it's own.

There are tons of little details put into this design and I'm sure I'm forgetting many of them!

 

A little clarification about the bubble blocker:

The primary purpose of the filter sock is not to actually filter, it is just there to help control bubbles from flying around the sump (or tank). Filter socks will trap microscopic baby copepods that fall off the screen, you want these to stay in your tank...so I recommend installing the sock slightly below the water level. Alternatively, you can use it as a filter sock by cinching the bag higher up on the drain. The 2" coupler with thumbscrews creates a gap for water to freely flow out of the bubble blocker at or near the water surface, where the bubble will have more likelyhood of rising to the surface vs getting caught up in the flow towards the return pump.

At first, with a new screen, bubbles are just flat out hard to control because water falls freely across the screen and entrains air along the way - there is just no good way to prevent this without running all the flow through the filter sock (which is fine to do at first to prevent this - just cinch the sock up higher, around the pipe). But as algae grows and the screen matures, the bubbles will almost completely disappear by controlling the drain with a valve (tuned siphon). I run 3 scrubbers without any filter socks or bubble blockers, and one turns nearly 3000 GPH with a 6" sump water operating level.

 

I think you're in the L4 territory, unless you have other primary filtration methods, are lightly stocked, and feed moderate to sparingly

 

Another uber high quality video (sarcasm)...You'll just have to take my word for it that I actually know how to make a halfway decent product video. Now just isn't the time for that!!

 

@Hellsangelbx you can run off the overflow if you have adequate bypass protection, such as a second full-volume capable overflow or a bypass pipe (find the "Resources" tab, I'm mobile or I'd link it)

For a 150 with that filtration you could probably do with an L2, especially at first (low bioload) but for the long term if you had only skimmer + scrubber, I might lean towards an L4. But starting with an L2, you might find that it does the job but fine and might for a long time, and if it doesn't, you can sell it and upgrade.

Dims (LWH) and GPH:
L2: 11x6x7, 210
L4: 17x6x7, 420

Shipping first units this week! Even if it kills me, I'm going to get a few shipped by Friday

I've whittled down the waiting list to more like 150, and about 75+ of those are for L2s. I've got my whole process down so once I get free and clear (and home) next week, I'll be franking these out. I will have all L2s on the wait list shipped by the end of March

 

I am shooting for mid-April, but one particular part design is proving to be a bit tricker than anticipated. I should know more next week

Thanks!!!

 

Will do!