LED questions

I'll post new photos as soon as it's ready for testing, probably this weekend. The driver is dimmable, I've used it before on a previous diy built based on Philips leds. Meantime, I've ordered some deep reds and royal blues from Steve.

 

They shipped it this morning. I have 2 drivers, I'll put the blues on a separate channel and adjust their intensity. I'm planning to use the blues only 1h before and after the deep red cycle, is that ok?

 

What do you mean?

 

I hope you'll have a better understanding of my madness. I've been running tests and the beanoverflow with d0lph1n mod is dead silent.

As for the Ats, there should be enough (7-8 x 9-10)space between the 2 vertical pipes.

The water will come via 1 inch hole from skimmer's box and via the right vertical pipe which is collecting water for 1/3rd bottom and is as tall as the water level in the tank (see tunze overflow box)

I will mount the led's on the outside wall by drilling a big hole or smaller individual holes which i'll cover with transparent plexi, water proof but the water should never reach that level.

Note
- The submerged outlet doesn't need a "siphon".
- The safety pipe will be connected via bulkhead at the proper level on the vertical wall between wave box and ats.

 

You are right about the emergency pipe, i'll bring it lower via a bulkhead on the divider.

I don't understand why the fully submerged outlet needs a "siphon". Please let me know. According to my tests, it doesn't.

 

Right, but being fully submerged means the main line in siphon mode by default. By tuning it you, you restrict the water flow until the hight of the water column reaches the open channel and water remaing water flows via the open channel. I get that.

What i don't get is why the main line has to have the u shape if it's submerged and restricted.

 

The LEDs arrived yesterday. I'll post new photos soon.

 

I was able to finish the scrubber last night. It's 7 x 10 inch. I've also followed your advice and brought the safety pipe at a lower level. It's on the divider now. You can see in the video below. It's been running for 48h wihtout issues. This is the final test before adding the LEDs by the end of the week.

 

I was able to finish the leds today, made a hole in the back wall and i've been running some temp tests at 100% power to check the cooling capacity of my super flat passive heatsink (12x24).

 

This was the final test. Thank you for your support.

 

I'm not sure, if you'll find this info useful or not, during the LED wiring....I had a hard time soldering the wires to the led star bcz the LEDs were already mounted on the heatsink. I've used a 15W iron.... outrageous results... I've used a gas iron... nope...I used a 150w Radio Shack..too hot..but if you minimize the soldering time, and prep the surfaces properly..it's doable without damaging the LED. I ended up buying a cheap soldering station from hobby king. I don't believe in cheap tools, this must be the exception of the rule. This must be the best $20 I've ever spent. Not sure how accurate the temp adjustments are...and not sure I care..I'm not a pro..It doesn't even compare with what I had.

 

And this a video of my diy wavemaker box in action, the other compartment of the algae scrubber box.
WARNING: Creepy hairy doll with blue eyes

I've also guided the wire of the wavemaker's pump via the Beananimal 3rd pipe (the emergency one). So no wires are coming out of the box. The water flow was not affected in the 3rd pipe ..according to my tests.

Here is the box with the cap on:


P.S: That's just temp light.

 

For sure..but there is only fresh water in that tank. That's the only idea I had to simulate a coral in action. My daughter is asking for her doll back every time she passes by.. .unfortunately.