1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

My New L3-HF ATS

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by Mike185, Nov 7, 2014.

Welcome to Algae Scrubbing Join our community today
  1. Turbo

    Turbo Does not really look like Johnny Carson Staff Member Site Owner Multiple Units! Customer

    Try it, the brush is very grabby. Swipe from the drain to the corner then lift out, and tap on the side of a bucket or tub. I use a Sterilite 16 qt tote for all my maintenance. Any GHA that gets into your tank will probably not 'seed' any worse that what is already present. If it's going to grow - it's going to grow, no matter what.

    The longer you let it grow, the faster the growth happens in the scrubber. So right after you clean, there is not a lot of algae to rebound. Once it starts, the more algae there is, the faster it grows. Think of it as a rule of "doubling". The growth will double for every given time period (not sure what that time period is exactly, but this is just a 'big picture' explanation). So if you clean too often, you stop the doubling process and start over. So the short answer is no, don't clean more often, if anything, clean less often, as long as you have a good base of growth, which you do.

    If you didn't notice any negative effects from increasing the photoperiod, bump it up some more.

    Another thought, you can block light to the area under the false bottom by applying blue painters tape to the bottom edge of the window on each side. Add 2 or 3 layers. You can also use black electrical tape, but the painters tape comes off easier if you ever wanted to remove it.

    I assume you meant Potassium, not phosphorus? I use the Brighwell Potassion-P powder, but not very often. I've seen K levels below 300 in some of my tanks, not very many people test for K but if you're at 380 I would not worry at all. K mainly affects the coloration of certain corals and does not necessarily inhibit growth. Red/orange caps will look faded, etc. Trying to keep it at 400 is actually pretty difiicult. Be carfeful with the Brightwell stuff, I told him he needs to correct his label and he still hasn't, so you can end up mixing it at 3x strength.

    A tip for you on the quoting - you can highlight the text on the PC or phone and a note bubble will pop up with "Quote/reply" which automatically quotes it for you. It's called select-to-quote
     
  2. Mike185

    Mike185 Member Customer

    OK. I'll give this a try next time. But I have to say that it is very easy to disconnect lights (using quick disconnect connections) and pump (using true union connection) and bring the unit to sink to work on.

    Great tip! I will definitely try the painter's tape.

    Ouch! K is what I meant, not phosphorous. Yeah, I'm not worried about 380 ppm. Just monitoring it to make sure it doesn't dip too much lower. Thanks for the head's up on Brightwell. Based on what read on other forums, I wouldn't touch any Brightwell product with a ten foot pole.

    Thanks
     
  3. Mike185

    Mike185 Member Customer

    I removed almost all of the GHA growing on the substrate yesterday during water change. It was so easy to remove that I'm now thinking it may be a useful adjunct to my other nutrient control methods.

    Interested to see if/how fast it grows back. But good to know it is so very easy to harvest if it does come back.
     
  4. Turbo

    Turbo Does not really look like Johnny Carson Staff Member Site Owner Multiple Units! Customer

    When your N and P drop, the algae on the substrate which gets less flow and light (comparatively) cannot grow as strong, so it will be easy to remove.
     

Share This Page