1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

New to scrubbers diy

Discussion in 'Algae Scrubber DIY' started by Theo, May 10, 2019.

Welcome to Algae Scrubbing Join our community today
  1. Theo

    Theo New Member

    24
    1
    China
    Good day.

    I’ve recently set up anew tank, its a 350g. I live in China and bought this scrubber.


    CED053D6-0F32-4F0D-8A30-FD9DD548337C.jpeg F3FF6A17-4032-4FF6-9CB5-5618E8E9BDB8.png F949BC91-E65B-4B13-8752-188F223A849A.png


    I don’t have any fish in yet but theres a fair amount of GHA in the tank. The scrubber I’ve got has red LEDs, but I don’t have any idea what lumens or wattage. The screen size is 35x16cm. The feed pump is a 1000Litre pump. I’m getting slight hair growth but it’s more of a slime algae.

    So I’m planning to build a waterfall scrubber. I like to feed heavy so I’m planning a 12x8 inch screen build. I will also build a diy LED unit, one for each side. I’ve sort of have a plan to build it but I’m stuck at the lights. I’ve read most of the guidelines and posts by @Turbo, but I still don’t understand it.

    So for this screen size I’ll need about 9x3W leds per side? Is it possible to run both 660nm and 420nm lights from the same driver? I read that to start off I need half the usual power, so can this be managed by the driver?

    I’m clueless here and completely out if my depth. Please guide me in how and what to do.
     
  2. Turbo

    Turbo Does not really look like Johnny Carson Staff Member Site Owner Multiple Units! Customer

    Hey I’ll try to help here, just having a busy week/weekend. I’ll try to follow up in the next couple days

    No fish, so this is a new system?

    What size tank?

    Any other filtration?
     
  3. Theo

    Theo New Member

    24
    1
    China
    Hello Turbo.

    I used to have a 125 g tank. Always struggled with turf algae, found out the rocks I bought was filled with crap and I ended up getting a bigger return pump. The turf started to die off and I pulled the ones I could out, 3 minutes later everything was dead.... All my fish, corals, inverts.... Nothing survived as it caused a massive nh3 spike.

    So yes, this is a new setup. So it’s a 350g total water volume. About 40lb of live rock. Flow in tank is 2x maxspect gyres 350. Return pump is a jebao 20000 dcp. Then sump: 1 chamber is protein skimmer( due to the previous tank and trying every method to clean tank known to mankind I ended up upgrading my skimmer) skimmer is a super reef octopus 6000 ext. 2 chamber is 2 boxes of marinepure cubes and this algae scrubber. And last chamber is rive rock rubble, return and heaters and carx reactor.

    I have some fish in qt at the moment. I’ll be adding 2 blue chromis on Tuesday as their qt is finished.

    I don’t have any idea what lumes the lights is but there’s 28 red and 7 white leds.

    The original post was 2 days ago. This is the growth today. It almost looks like a green diatom algae, I say diatom because it makes a bubble type algae on the surface.


    A1167D56-7F04-4870-87C0-82D8CF4201A9.jpeg 0E6FD118-E696-406A-97FC-8668D9E6DBB3.jpeg C3A8135D-F02E-43C0-95D7-15D3F5241282.jpeg

    I’m really scared shitless for this tank going the same way as the previous one....

    Do you think this is what you want and is there anything I can do to improve it, or should I try and build a waterfall scrubber?
     
  4. arno

    arno New Member

    Do you maybe have link from the place you bought the UAS ?




    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
  5. Theo

    Theo New Member

    24
    1
    China
    In China there’s a site similar to amazon called taobao. Bought it there. Not able to visit their sites from the web though. So don’t have a link.
     
  6. arno

    arno New Member

  7. Turbo

    Turbo Does not really look like Johnny Carson Staff Member Site Owner Multiple Units! Customer

    Usually, the rule of thumb for the amount of live rock that you want is more like 1-2 lbs/gallon, so offhand I would say you are very short on the quantity of live rock in system. This limits the size of the biological community that can exist. Was 40lb a typo? Did you mean 400 lbs?

    Going by the feeding rule, that screen (with proper flow and lighting) should be able to filter about 8 cubes/day. That's a fair amount of food

    Have you looked at this site? Algae Scrubber Basics - Overview and in particular, this section: Algae Scrubber Basics - Lighting: LED

    Minimum coverage: 12 x 8 = 96 sq in, 96/8 = 12 LEDs per side (that only accounts for Deep Reds)
    Maximum coverage is 2x that quantity, or 24 DRs per side

    You can get away with less than the minimum. You just have to be aware that there may end up being a limitation to the maximum capacity of the screen. Meaning, it's 96 sq in but only lit like it is 72 sq in (or 36, if you go with the maximum coverage equation)

    What I mean by that last statement is that if you plan to use 9 3W LEDs, and you want to achieve the "maximum coverage" number, then you just work that backwards. 9 LEDs covering 4 sq in each, 9x4=36. 9 LEDs covering 8 sq in each, 9x8=72. Essentially, 9 LEDs would be good for a screen within the 36-72 sq in range. If you stretch the screen size further, you're not necessarily going to increase filtration capacity because you are limited by the amount of light you are providing.

    Regarding the full power/half power question: if you design a pair of fixtures such that each fixture uses a separate driver, then you can run both of those screens at 50% by wiring them in parallel and connecting them to only one driver. Then, when your screen matures, you can run them on separate drivers.

    Regarding the violet 420nm LEDs - you can run any LEDs in series without issue. You just would need to verify that your driver can handle the voltage drop for all the LEDs you place on that driver (i.e. add up the voltage drop for each LED). A few side notes: if you are going to use 420nm, you are usually fine running these individually in the series chain along with the DRs. I prefer to run any "supplementary" colors at a lower power. The easiest way to do this is by wiring a pair of these in parallel with each other (so you connect + to + and - to - ) and then connecting that pair in series with the rest of the chain. This way the supplemental color does not create "hotspots" - however, 420nm Violet is less of a concern, it's 455nm Royal blue that will cause hotspots at full power

    Hope that helps for a starter
     
  8. Theo

    Theo New Member

    24
    1
    China
    Sorry it was a typo, I meant 400lb.

    I found a place that can cnc all the plastic parts, planning on doing it with pp plastic. Also found the heatsink and leds I want to use. So I’ve got a design in my head and if I do decide to build it I want to make a step by step progress with bunch of pictures, because who doesn’t like pictures.

    So for the leds fixture I want to build like a small housing made of black pp plastic and then obviously clear front. How do I get the plastic glued to the aluminum heatsink to make it waterproof? Is there a specific type of material(plastic, abs, pvc, acrylic) I should use to make the housing that I can weld or glue to the aluminum heatsink? And if so, what is the best product to do this? It will not be submerged in the water, but for the odd drops or splashes I want to make sure the light will stay safe.
     
  9. Theo

    Theo New Member

    24
    1
    China
    I need your help @Turbo.

    I decided to make it a 10” x7” screen. That’s a total of 70sq inch. By doing the feeding calculations it’s 70/12= 5,8 cubes of frozen food.

    For the led its 10x7=70. 70/4= 17.5 leds per side.

    I decided to use 13 red leds and 2 violet leds. So that give a coverage of 70/13=5sq inch per led. I’ll be placing them on a 10x7” heatsink to make sure I get even coverage.

    I’m really stuck at the leds and the drivers. I’ve drawn a picture of the layout I want to use. I want to use a dimmable driver, but I always want the violets to run at 50% of the reds power. So if the reds runs at 100%, the violets should run at 50%. If the reds run at 70%, the violets should run at 35%. But I’m not sure how to wire them and what drivers to get.


    977EB0D0-FCCA-4244-95CB-F0E14180B94E.jpeg

    What is the best way to achieve this, but also the safest?

    Please, I know it’s easy for most of you and I don’t understand why I’m not getting this( probably the most frustrating part is knowing it’s simple, and it ticks me off not getting it). Please help.
     
  10. Theo

    Theo New Member

    24
    1
    China
    I spoke to a guy that sells everything that I would need, I just don’t know what I need. Being a foreigner not speaking Chinese causes some miscommunication but maybe you can help me.
    This is what I’m planning.

    CFD09B59-160F-46AD-9233-C986790ACF18.jpeg

    So the guy told me he has a dimmable driver that can control 2 channels. The driver rated for 10-20 3W leds. Here’s a couple of photos. I know its in chinese but maybe you can look at the numbers and know if it’s the correct one.

    B6BE2010-F5C2-467C-A03E-F90350206CFE.png

    145B691F-41B5-42B6-A305-6574708BA20D.png

    596E9352-1C42-4388-91BB-70672785010A.png

    You can see on my drawing that the “B” and the “W” is the channels. If I do it like this, will it work and is this driver the correct one?
     
  11. Turbo

    Turbo Does not really look like Johnny Carson Staff Member Site Owner Multiple Units! Customer

    I have no idea what that wiring diagram represents but it doesn't have to be this complicated. You connect them all in one series chain, but just put the violets in parallel with each other like this:

    DIY LED 12 Wiring.jpg

    DIY LED 15 Wiring - Blues parallel.jpg

    Each star has two + and two - terminals. So you go into the + terminal on the first violet, then connect the other + on the same violet to a + on the second violet. Then connect - to - between the two. Then connect the other - on the 2nd violet to the next red in the series.
     
  12. Theo

    Theo New Member

    24
    1
    China
    Ok. For this I use a direct current driver, right? Which means 3W x 15 leds= 45 total wattage. So I can get a direct current driver of 50W?
     
  13. Turbo

    Turbo Does not really look like Johnny Carson Staff Member Site Owner Multiple Units! Customer

    A 3W LED does not actually consume 3W. That's mostly a marketing thing. A DR typically has a voltage drop of about 2.2-2.4V and has a 700mA max current. So doing the math, P=I * V, 0.7A * 2.4V = 1.68W. 15 x 1.68 = 25.2W. When you factor in the violets, just treat them as a single chip for purposes of calculating power.

    You can verify this all by connecting up a few LEDs to a driver you already have and using a voltmeter to measure the voltage drop across the entire array, then multiply by the current.

    Remember to add 10% for driver losses. So if your total power used by the array itself is 25W, go to the next largest power supply (like 30W or so) and you'll be safe. Most power supplies are cheap so you have to add in some "overhead". Except Meanwell supplies, those are about 98% efficient with overhead built in, and can run at 100% rated load all day long.
     
  14. Theo

    Theo New Member

    24
    1
    China
    @Turbo. Ok. I’m pretty sure I’ve got the light figured out. Now to the next question. My screen will be 10” long. According to your post you suggest to use minimum 35gph per inch. So thats 350gph.

    Just 3 questions- 1. What is the best flow per hour? 2. What is the best diameter for the slot pipe? 3. And how big should the slot be where the screen will fit into? (Say I have a screen that is 1,5mm thick, what gap should I make to get the best water movement over the screen?)
     
  15. Turbo

    Turbo Does not really look like Johnny Carson Staff Member Site Owner Multiple Units! Customer

    That's a maximum now - 35 GPH/in

    Just start with flow set to just enough to cover the majority of the screen

    IMO best diameter is 3/4"

    Slot 1/8" wide
     
  16. Theo

    Theo New Member

    24
    1
    China
    D1D7CD49-418E-45D5-9588-252C378308B4.jpeg

    I found a Meanwell supplier, but with the language barrier and me not knowing what ask for makes it impossible.

    @Turbo this is how I want to wire the lights. I want to make 2 of them. Is there a Meanwell driver that is dimmable but can run both these fixtures. I want to run both the light fixtures of one driver, but it has to be dimmable. So it has to be a dimmable driver that can run 28 chips in series. Is there a Meanwell driver that can do this? If so, what model number, or something? So that I can ask the guy I want this one.
     
  17. Turbo

    Turbo Does not really look like Johnny Carson Staff Member Site Owner Multiple Units! Customer

    Yup that's it

    I'm sure there is a meanwell that can run both off one driver but you'll pay more for one of those than you would for 2x LPC-35-700 ones, which is all you need to run one of these fixtures.

    Incidentally you can parallel both fixtures together on one LPC-35-700 and that will work intially, and might be all you need actually. Running both fixtures at 700mA on a new screen could be too intense initially, and you would likely be able to run both off of one driver for at least a couple of months while the screen matures and you start getting regular harvests.

    For reference, with my Rev 4 series, the dimming knob initial position I tell everyone to start at equates to 25% of the full intensity. Then I tell them to ramp up to the 50% point and hold there for at least a couple weeks, if not a couple months, to really let the screen mature. Then only start increaseing intensity if you have excellent growth but need more firepower...get to the 50% intensity and then extend hours to the max, then only increase intensity if that's needed.

    Every tank is different though, I've had people drop the scrubber on and run the lights 24/7 at 100% right off the bat and get good results. Then I've had people that have to run the minimum intensity (10%) for months until growth kicked in.
     
  18. Theo

    Theo New Member

    24
    1
    China
    Ok. I’ll get 2 of those drivers. I found a dimmer that can dim both units simultaneously. It says that the dimmer is 12-24V and 30A. Will this dimmer work?
     
  19. Turbo

    Turbo Does not really look like Johnny Carson Staff Member Site Owner Multiple Units! Customer

    Those drivers are not dimmable.
     
  20. Theo

    Theo New Member

    24
    1
    China
    Is there a meanwell driver that is dimmable and will work for this exact setup?
     

Share This Page