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Scrubber build

Discussion in 'Algae Scrubber DIY' started by Tim, Sep 17, 2017.

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  1. Tim

    Tim Member Trusted Member

    Ok, thank you for the info. I wonder, I recently measured no3 and po4. Po4 is around 0.06 to 0.1 and No3 4+. I am going experiment with adding fiberfill to the intake of the scrubber pump. Maybe this way the water becomes more clear. I do not like to add a reactor with carbon and adding calciumcarbonate does help a bit, but not enough. Hopefully this will also help to reduce the nutrients a bit. If this means the system is no longer planktonfriendly; so be it. I prefer normal coral with clear water over nps corals with yellowish water. I feel GAC becomes quite expensive as I need to change it frequently.

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  2. Turbo

    Turbo Does not really look like Johnny Carson Staff Member Site Owner Multiple Units! Customer

    What were you wanting to achieve by adding a foam filter to the scrubber intake?

    Acceptable nutrient levels are generally a personal preference, depends on what you're keeping, etc, but if you asked me, I wouldn't say your nutrient levels are high.

    If your concern is water clarity, the yellow slime growth may have something to do with this, but a slight coloration can usually be pretty easily removed by using a small to very moderate amount of GAC - and it doesn't have to be in a reactor, you can just put some in a media bag and set it in the flow pathway in your sump. If you wanted to very quickly clear up your water to perfect crystal clarity, you might have to use a reactor, but if you use a long-term philosophy, a small amount in a media bag that you flip/rotate/change on a regular schedule will get you a long way (and save the cost of the reactor/pump)
     
  3. Tim

    Tim Member Trusted Member

    The filterfloss/wool should catch some particles before they entirely demineralise. I hope this aids the scrubber a bit to the point where no3/po4 are on an acceptable level for me (0.03 po4 / 3 no3).

    Hopefully it helps, I can at least give it a try.

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  4. Turbo

    Turbo Does not really look like Johnny Carson Staff Member Site Owner Multiple Units! Customer

    The algae mat acts as a mechanical filter to some extent. The algae also forms a breeding ground for bacteria, so any small particles (or even larger ones) that get lodged in the screen will have a better chance of natural decomposition if they are allowed to make it to the screen. I personally wouldn't put a mechanical filter on the scrubber intake.

    I know that often nutrient levels are a bit of a subject of debate, but there are a lot of long-time reefkeepers that no longer subscribe to the philosophy (some never did) of keeping phosphates below 0.04. Stability is the key, that is, not allowing it to swing all over the place over relatively short periods of time.

    Similarly with nitrates, there are many that prefer to keep nitrates at a nominally measurable level, like 5-10 ppm.

    Personally, I don't think that exact levels really matter that much - as long as you have a stable system and are feeding regularly, and feeding some level of variety of foods of good quality, you're going to have all the nutrients your system needs to be healthy. Plus, hobby-grade test kits have a margin of error that is huge when you get down to those levels. I think the Hanna Phosphate meter is only accurate +/- 0.04
     
  5. Tim

    Tim Member Trusted Member

    I agree, I have seen awsome results with raised parameters. However, I am not entirely happy with the scrubbers' performance. Not yet.

    I hope the new slotpipe will 'solve' the water distribution problem.. I made a mistake with the other scrubber; the slot is slightling longer than the screen; there is a few mm space on each end and a lot of water rushes through those gaps. I still need to get the pvc though. To give you and indication about the yellowness;
    [​IMG]

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  6. Tim

    Tim Member Trusted Member

    the new one..[​IMG]

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