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Turbo's Aquatics HF L4 scrubber

Discussion in 'Customer Support' started by Peter, Jul 14, 2014.

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  1. Peter

    Peter Member Trusted Member Customer

    - Day 36 (2 days from full cleaning).
    - Photoperiod is 12 hours by night .
    - Flow is 500 g/h.
    - No3 = 5 ppm


    Ok, I am having a problem.
    Two days after cleaning I am getting some kind of pure white stuff, and there is not green growth at all.
    Is this photo saturation or what?
    Previous time I got pretty good growth with 12hrs photoperiod, from almost bare screen.

    Thank you for your help.

    003.JPG 010.JPG 013.JPG
     
  2. Turbo

    Turbo Does not really look like Johnny Carson Staff Member Site Owner Multiple Units! Customer

    That's only the 2nd time I've seen this, the same thing happened to @Ricky about a year ago and we never figured it out. I thought it was photosaturation but to me that doesn't explain it, because it's such a sudden change. I get white algae on my top of tank UAS test unit when the algae gets thick enough to limit the flow, and then right on front of the LEDs it turns white, but you're getting is in a swath across the whole screen. So weird.

    My gut tells me that maybe the scrubber is "doing it's job" and there was a drop out of some nutrient or amino acid or some kind of conpound in the tank to a certain point where that compound became a limiting factor, and this sudden change in water chemistry meant that the dominant strain of algae could no longer grow effectively - so it's getting a ton of light, but can't do anything with it, so it goes white quickly.

    If this is the case, and it most certainly might not be because honestly that is just an educated guess, the only thing I can think of that might need to be done is to scrub off the white algae a little more than you normally would at this point (gently, with the small toothbrush) and see if that helps.

    There also might be some chemical warfare going on between 2 algal strains that are trying to survive in a now-nutrient environment. If this is the case, then there isn't a whole lot you can do except let them battle it out. If this is the case (again, no idea) obviously one has lost the battle and needs to be removed from the field on a stretcher (scrub)

    That's my take on it. But again, your guess is as good as mine.

    I would give the whole screen a gentle scrub and then back the hours down by 2 hours/day

    What is the condition of the tank?

    Any algae?

    Have you tested for N and P lately?

    Alkalinity, Calcium, and Magnesium test results?

    Do you have a Potassium test kit, or Potassium test results?
     
    Peter likes this.
  3. Ricky

    Ricky Member Trusted Member Multiple Units! Customer

    Mine was in connection to Carbon Dosing. I started carbon dosing, nutrients dropped and algae turned white.
     
    Peter likes this.
  4. Peter

    Peter Member Trusted Member Customer

    Thank you @Turbo and @Ricky for your answers and help.
    I think that it is outstanding opportunity for all of us to see what is this white algae, and to know solution on long run for all users after this is resolved.
    Anyway, this is current situation in my DT.
    I tested for Phosphate and Nitrate two days ago, and I don't have detectable Phosphate by Salifert test, and my Nitrates are 5 ppm.
    Also, I can see a lot of brown hair algae in my DT, and some of it is detached and swim around at all times (note back glass).

    A.jpg


    My photoperiod in DT is 10 hours with PAR values from 150 to 50 at this point, because my tank is just two and a half months old.
    I am not dosing or testing anything, and my filtration is based on skimmer and scrubber alone.

    At this point I have cleaned my scrubber screen as @Turbo suggested, and my photoperiod is down to 10 hours overnight (two hours less than before).
    I would like to note that for the first time I have cleaned my screen with freshwater and toothbrush (before it was just cleaned in saltwater a bit).
    As I am fully convinced that this scrubber will grow good algae soon, I wanted to get rid of white algae, cyano, brown algae, some detritus, and start it almost from scratch.
    I am happy to see, that my scrubber screen kept good amount of green roots over the rough surface of this screen, and this is absolutely promising.

    A.jpg


    I will keep posting regular updates. :)
    Thank you for helping.
     
  5. Turbo

    Turbo Does not really look like Johnny Carson Staff Member Site Owner Multiple Units! Customer

    Well the only good thing is that we now have a second instance of the quick-white effect...
     
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  6. Peter

    Peter Member Trusted Member Customer

    So, this is update after 19 days from white algae problem. Yesterday I performed 15% WC.
    Sadly but problem persisted. There was some dark and green algae, but immediately after gentle cleaning (this time in tap water), white algae returns.
    There is brown, green hair algae, and some string algae together at the same time in my DT.
    I must say that my softies are in very bad shape, but my Anemone and LPS corals are good. This is so puzzling.

    No3 = 3 ppm
    Po4 = 0 ppm
    S = 1.024

    A.jpg B.jpg C.jpg D.jpg E.jpg
     
  7. Turbo

    Turbo Does not really look like Johnny Carson Staff Member Site Owner Multiple Units! Customer

    Still not sure what is going on with the scrubber, but you have a dinoflagellate outbreak in your tank, not algae. This is a bit typical in a new tank. Generally it's why you don't stock a new tank with lots or corals in the first 6 months - you're rolling the dice because there are a lot if "untestable" things going on in a reef tank in the first 6-12 months.

    Dinos are toxic to most life so this is why your softies are closing up, which is definitely not normal

    Run carbon and change it often. Reduce feeding, feed only at 15 minutes before lights out, run a filter sock, and suck as much of the dinos out with a airline hose daily. I would use a piece of hard airline about 12" long attached to the soft hose so that you can get right down into books and crannies. Then blow off all the rocks & corals with a power head and let the filter sock collect it (or use a very fine net). Rinse out the filter sock daily, an hours or so after your cleaning process.

    This will probably need to be done for a few weeks and maybe 2x daily.
     
    Peter likes this.
  8. Peter

    Peter Member Trusted Member Customer

    @Turbo, you may think that those white spots on algae strings in the photo are oxygen bubbles, but instead those are pods. Is this why you are referring to dinoflagellate?
    Thank you very much for your help. I will do as you say, and come back with results.
     
    Last edited: Sep 7, 2014
  9. Turbo

    Turbo Does not really look like Johnny Carson Staff Member Site Owner Multiple Units! Customer

    I was looking at it on my phone last night...now I see you are right, those are pods, you can see the little appendages!

    I guess now that I can see these in higher res it looks more like very fine green hair algae instead of dinos. There does appear to be some air bubbles in one of the pics so the dinos might still be there. I would still make a thorough pass through the tank with an airline hose siphon and see what you get. The blow off the rocks and run a filter sock.

    As for the scrubber, get me up to date:

    What flow
    What photoperiod
    Have you change the jumpers on the LED boards at all

    Bud
     
    Peter likes this.
  10. Peter

    Peter Member Trusted Member Customer

    - Photoperiod is 10 hours by night .
    - Flow is 500 g/h.

    I didn't touch jumpers at all, and scrubber works on low power for now.
    Nevertheless, I should obtain stronger pump with 800 g/h very soon, and I wanted to ask you if you think that I should use this pump instead of 500 g/h?
    It may make some difference, and maybe produce better growth even on low power LED settings.
    I am positive that my algae have very strong grip in past few months, and I didn't have any detachment so far.
     
  11. Turbo

    Turbo Does not really look like Johnny Carson Staff Member Site Owner Multiple Units! Customer

    If the actual flow 500 GPH, or is that the pump rated flow?

    How much are you currently feeding?
     
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  12. Peter

    Peter Member Trusted Member Customer

    This is pump rated flow, I am not sure about actual flow at this point.
    I am feeding around 5-6 pinches of flake, mysis per day.
     
  13. Turbo

    Turbo Does not really look like Johnny Carson Staff Member Site Owner Multiple Units! Customer

    Hmmm...I think I may have missed this before, but then again, there was no issue with getting growth at first.

    So your pump is rated for 500 GPH, but there is a head-loss factor. So your actual flow may be more in the 350 range, maybe 400, hard to say without knowing more info, but that should not be the major factor at this point.

    Your feeding is rather low for a 4 cube/day scrubber. Initially, there might have been more in the water column for the algae to uptake: now there is not. This might explain the white algae - low nutrients, or something has become a limiting factor. A limiting factor is what occurs when a specific element or compound is reduced to the point where the algae simply cannot grow any more (or cannot absorb another nutrient, which is still in excess). But i have no idea what the limiting factor might be.

    The result is that you have way too much light compared to the nutrients delivered to the screen (or possibly, too much light compared to what the algae has the limited ability to absorb).

    So what I would do it split up the photoperiod and reduce total hours. Run it at 4 hours on, 4 hours off, 4 hours on, 12 off. Feeding stays the same, flow stays the same. Scrape the screen to get the white algae off. See what happens in a few days. If the white algae returns in about the same time frame as it did after the last time you cleaned it, reduce to 3 on, 5 off, 3 on, 12 off.

    As for figuring out what the limiting factor is, that's kind of a guessing game if you don't have access to a lab to have your water tested, like Aquarium Water Testing over here (I'm guessing there is nothing like that in Serbia). If I had to guess: could be Iron or Potassium. @Ricky what were you doing again when this happened to you?
     
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  14. Peter

    Peter Member Trusted Member Customer

    Thank you Turbo very much for such detailed answer and clear directions.
    I will do as you say from now on, and I will post updates here.
    I am expecting two surgeonfishes in couple of weeks, so this should raise bioload. I can't put more fishes in at this point because tank is still pretty young (three months old).
    Anyway, I will feed my LPS corals more, and mu BTA just in case.

    Thank you very much.
     
  15. Turbo

    Turbo Does not really look like Johnny Carson Staff Member Site Owner Multiple Units! Customer

    I'd say at 3 months you're pretty safe to put a couple tangs in. They will hopefully graze on the algae as well.
     
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  16. Peter

    Peter Member Trusted Member Customer

    I have one more interesting observation regarding this white algae.
    When I clean all screen fully, than I am not getting white algae at all, but when I leave green patches and strings after cleaning, those patches turns white by tomorrow.
    So, in my case green algae turns white after cleaning, if I leave some on the screen.
    White algae don't grow in my case from bare screen after cleaning.

    This observation is based on two full cleanings and two partial cleanings.
    One full, than one partial, than one full, and one partial afterwards.
     
  17. Turbo

    Turbo Does not really look like Johnny Carson Staff Member Site Owner Multiple Units! Customer

    Thanks for the information. Yet another clue...but to what I still have no idea!!!
     
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  18. Peter

    Peter Member Trusted Member Customer

    We will get to the bottom of this, eventually. :)

    I think that @Ricky got white algae because of his carbon dosing at the time.
    When he stopped with dosing, white algae vanished.
    Also, I am not sure about limiting factor, because I was doing WC day before screen green algae turn white. Based on this, I think that I have injected all required elements with new saltwater.
    That's why this is so confusing. :)
     
    Last edited: Sep 9, 2014
  19. Turbo

    Turbo Does not really look like Johnny Carson Staff Member Site Owner Multiple Units! Customer

    The connection would then be either N or P. Ricky was lowering it by carbon dosing, you by water changes. It doesn't have to be zero to be a limiting factor, but with N and P that usually is the case. Perhaps the connection is available nutrients. Concentration goes down due to carbon dosing or water changes, but scrubber settings remain the same. Once a certain point is hit, algae cannot be supported. Sounds like a good theory so far.
     
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  20. Peter

    Peter Member Trusted Member Customer

    Thanks Turbo for clearing this up. I will get on heavier feeding at this point just to make sure.
    All of my Sinularia softies don't open at all for example (5 corals). Something is missing for sure, even after WC.
    You are absolutelly correct.
     

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