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Turkey baster to rocks might be bad

Discussion in 'Basic Principles' started by sabbath, Dec 23, 2012.

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  1. Ricky

    Ricky Member Trusted Member Multiple Units! Customer

    Kerry but can you compare any of our tanks to the flow of a natural reef?
     
  2. Garf

    Garf Member Trusted Member

    With regard to the chemical make up discrepancies of algal exudate, I suppose the ultimate answer would be to turn this inappropriate dissolved organic carbon into particulate organic matter (coral and micro fauna food) before it gets to the display. There could be several ways of doing this. Bio balls in the bottom of the ATS chamber may provide enough bacterial area for some benefit, or a good sized rubble pile in a sump or perhaps a skimmer filled up with spare screening material like this but with lots more screen material;
    [​IMG]
     
  3. Kerry

    Kerry Member Trusted Member Customer

    Thats impossible to simulate in a tank. I do have enough that it blows sand a touch and I need to spread it back every now and then which is about every 30 days if the clown or goby does not do it for me as they usually do. I figure that stuff that settles is food for something just as in the ocean, nothing goes unused.
     
  4. Turbo

    Turbo Does not really look like Johnny Carson Staff Member Site Owner Multiple Units! Customer

    Can you explain the mechanism you are talking about here? I think I'm missing something - what is it that would turn the DOCs into particulars for the corals to then feed on? I thought the symbiotic zooxanthelle did this function
     
  5. Garf

    Garf Member Trusted Member

    Growing bacteria and it's predators and hence bacterial aggregates and micro fauna from Dissolved Organic Compounds. Zooxanthellae mainly produce sugars (the aforementioned reef DOC's) to power corals but not enough protein material to grow corals as I understand it. Therefore they need high protein foods to suppliment the zooxanthellae, which mainly supply energy, not protein.
     
  6. Garf

    Garf Member Trusted Member

  7. BeanAnimal

    BeanAnimal New Member Customer

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    There really is little about our captive systems that resembles a natural reef. Sure we have some of the same basic life and biological mechanisms, but their interactions is vastly different in many (most) ways due to the differences in scale.

    Turky baster bad? I am not going to weigh deeply into the debate other than to say that my for over 5 years my "non basted" reef thrived.... I would have argued with anybody who questioned my methodology, but at year 6 that came to a crashing halt. 2 Years later I am still fighting the aftermath (phosphate sequestration at a grand scale) of my husbandry practices. 6 months of GFO, lanthanum Chloride and counltess water changes did little to reverse the course. What atually helped? Placing 10 micron filter socks on the overflows and using power heads to blow off the rocks several times a day for a week. The amount of detritus recovered was stunning. Mind you, my display tank has tons of flow and detritus (piles of it) accumulates in lower flow area of the sump (where it is removed).

    Did I harm other mechnaisms? I dunno... but for 6 years I never blew of my rocks (display or sump) and it is now a regular part of my maintenance.
     
  8. sabbath

    sabbath Member Trusted Member Customer

    Welcome BeanAnimal! Glad to see you here as this site is really looking to be a none bias ATS using group of people. When it comes to a filtration methods people seem to always think they have it all figured out. But no two agree. Here it has been people that are real about it IMO. There is a mixed bag of people with a verity of methods and everyone has been just taking it in as good learning of what happens and or works for them and why. I writing this in a waiting room on my phone so hopefully you see what I'm saying.
    I wonder if there is a balance with blasting stuff off of the rocks as well. Maybe cycling area the aquarium over the course of a year or something.
    Could the same thing be said with the sand? Do you currently has a ATS in you system?
    Bean;
    Hay on another note; I'm looking at the idea of adding your overflow system to a new 180g. I like the Glass Holes inside box. Do you think that an external box could be added to do the "BeanAnimal" 3 drain system. I have a thread on RC DIY on this right now.


    Sent from my mobile

    Don
     
  9. Turbo

    Turbo Does not really look like Johnny Carson Staff Member Site Owner Multiple Units! Customer

    Ha Bean you just can't get away from questions about your drain system can ya!!
     
  10. BeanAnimal

    BeanAnimal New Member Customer

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    Bud is a geat guy and it appears he has worked very hard to put this together.

    There are numerous (countless) routes to a long term healthy system, the hard part is find that route (combination of methods) that yields perpetual success. Each of the countless filtration methods has pros and cons that have to be considered. The problem many of us have is that we settle on a system that appears to work, only to find out years later that we neglected to realize or account for a (obvious after the "crash") hole in our methodology. To that point (pre crash) we will argue our method is flawless, even if we do acknowledge other methods as being suitable as well. The longer the "good" run, the more emboldened we become. I am (was) in that boat. I will say that in my opinion, there is no "single" export method that is soley viable for perpetual success. I am firmly of the mindset that it takes a combination of methods (again depenendent on many variables including tank load, topology, husbandry schedules, practices etc.)

    For 5 years I had a refugium with cheato. It was a detritus trap as well as a macro farm. When I took it offline (in an effort to combat the growing phosphate problem by ridding my system of detritus traps) my nitrates skyrocketed. Shortly after, I added an dump tray style scrubber (2 12"x12" screens). The scubber dropped the nitrates quickly and the coral is again (mostly) thriving in my system. The scrubber appears to be doing a much better job than the refiugium did, but I still have a large phosphate problem that I continue to combat. My display (within the last 4 weeks) has started to get overrun with GHA. I will likely be replacing the dump style scrubber with a waterfall type and moving to LEDs.

    Each of our system is different. I personally don't see the harm in blowing off rocks, as I am certain that much of my long term problem (other than habitual and rampant overfeeding) was detritus accumulation and lack of mechanical filtration. Even in a "clean" system, it is amazing how much brown gunk can clog a filter sock or sponge in a matter of hours....


    Ignoring the fact that their overflows are very undersized with regard to surface skimming (they are small and have teeth), I am not a glass holes fan by any measure simply because they have been less than flattering when asked by [their] customers about implementing my design with their products. But, yes, you could use their internal box and attach it to an external that incorporates my standpipe design. You however would be MUCH better off, just build your own internal box, making it as wide as possible. You could also make it shallower (front to back) to take up less realestate and go without teeth to maximize surface skimming and reduce noise.
     
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2013
  11. Turbo

    Turbo Does not really look like Johnny Carson Staff Member Site Owner Multiple Units! Customer

    Yeah I run a fluid dynamics calculation for all the overflow boxes I make. Flow through a notched overflow is basically a weir equation with a surface tension/resistance factor (constant). Flow in either case is a function of the width of the overflow (sum of the gaps, for a notched overflow) and the depth of the water flowing over it. Their boxes can not mathematically meet their claimed rating. The only thing I can think of is that they tested them on a system that had a "X" GPH pump on it, and it handled it just fine - with the head loss factored in. Try to actually put "X" GPH through it and the water level goes to the top of the teeth. Flow increases by a power of 1.5 per change in water height level. So if you have 1.5" deep teeth with 1" of water on them, and increase the water level to 1.5", you get 2.25x the flow.
     
  12. sabbath

    sabbath Member Trusted Member Customer

    Man some how the last 2 replies slipped by me!!!

    Thanks beananimal and Floyd.
    I had given up on trying to get answers on how to do the overflow. Do you guys have links or info on where to get or how to do the overflow? Wouldn't an overflow with teeth be safer for keeping fish in the aquarium? I'm hopping that I could purchase the precut glued together glass from someone...
    Thanks and




    Sent from my mobile

    Don
     
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2013
  13. Turbo

    Turbo Does not really look like Johnny Carson Staff Member Site Owner Multiple Units! Customer

    well it depends on other protective methods. You can put a screen over the inlet pipe or notch out the downward facing inputs (elbows) or add screening methods in the sump to prevent buddies from making it to the return pump. The latter is what I do. When I first set up the tank, the clownfish would routinely ride the pipe. Now they have their homes and it does not matter much anymore.

    So you can do either. The weir is much, much thinner (height) than the teeth flow. Like if you have a notched overflow that is 12" wide (1/4" slots every 1/2") with 3/4" of water over it to get the flow you want/need (in that example, 675 GPH), the comparable weir is more like 5/16"-3/8" of water over it. So you have less chance of a fish getting involuntarily sucked into the flow. They would have to like riding the pipe (and some do)
     
  14. sabbath

    sabbath Member Trusted Member Customer


    That makes sense. Do you just go to a glass shop and get them to cut the glass for you?




     
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2013
  15. Turbo

    Turbo Does not really look like Johnny Carson Staff Member Site Owner Multiple Units! Customer

    You cannot easily cut teeth in glass. Then one you have them, you can break them very easily. Is that what you were asking?

    I have a 24"+ long template for routing teeth (in acrylic). The actual routing only takes about a minute.
     
  16. sabbath

    sabbath Member Trusted Member Customer

    No I asking about the weir without teeth.
    Also is yours 1/4" Glass.
    You could cut teeth in acrylic? I could make it longer maybe?
     
  17. Turbo

    Turbo Does not really look like Johnny Carson Staff Member Site Owner Multiple Units! Customer

    Hell yeah!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  18. sabbath

    sabbath Member Trusted Member Customer

    Nice, And what are the slots for with the white screws?
    Would like a 36" long one be good for 1000gph. This would allow me to to center the box and keep the drains vertical. As they are centered now with a 4' DT and I'm replacing it with a 6' DT. I don't thing that I'm actually over 700gph though.
     
  19. Turbo

    Turbo Does not really look like Johnny Carson Staff Member Site Owner Multiple Units! Customer

    That one was for a frag tank set up for a BeanAnimal overflow, the fence was reversible/flippable so that you could run it with teeth in case you had anemones/fish and as a weir if not. Worked out pretty well.

    36" long with 1/4" slots every 1/2", 1000 GPH max, need 1/2" teeth for that. I would make them 3/4" teeth, that would max out at near 2000 GPH before the fence was topped. As crud builds up on the teeth, that number would go down - maybe to 1500 GPH.
     
  20. sabbath

    sabbath Member Trusted Member Customer

    Turbo I sent you an email for more info on this.


    Sent from my mobile

    Don
     

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