This video walks you through all you need to know to install the acrylic patches for Upgrade Kits #1, #2, and #3. I did not show being installed were for the #2 kit for the Rev 1 L2 (which is the side drain patch only, not the combination #2/#3 patch), but the procedure for installing that patch follows the same process, drill the new hole & place the patch to align with the new hole location. I also do not show the process for installing just the #3 kit (slot pipe upgrade) which is one small patch on each side. This is for anyone who does not wish to patch the side drain hole (the one with the uniseal). For this patch set, you would install the first patch and put a weight on it for about 20-30 minutes then flip over and install the second patch. For the second patch, you will want some kind of support under the unit as it will not sit level due to the first patch. Anything works - a few shims stacked up, or a couple of strips of wood. See also this follow-up video posted down further in this thread
Hey Bud, Nice and easy video to go on. Any chance you can list the items used to make the holes etc as I'll need to buy from local depot once my upgrade parts are delivered (soon so thanks for the email notification) Ta
Just a 1/4" drill bit for the "pilot" hole, then a 2" diameter standard hole saw (with the center bit). Technically you don't need the separate bit, because it usually comes with the hole saw (but it removable). I use an acrylic bit in the video but you don't really have to. For shaving off the edges of the top panels on the Rev 1 L2, just use a flat file. These are only a few bucks in any hardware store. If you skip to the end of that whole section of the video (past the parts where I use a sanding drum and a coping saw) I mention just using a file and this works well requires the least complexity.
Thanks Bud. Do you include the stencil for where the holes needs cutting out? Just a little concerned of me and my DIY skills and cutting holes that don't fit.
No, but in the video I use a razor blade to mark the hole and the center. If the hole ends up off-center a bit that's probably OK as there is a little room to give. Installing the patch square is important, but again there is allowable margin for error. Just mark a line vertically from top of bottom on the end of the scrubber. Then lay the patch over the side and get it in "final" position and mark the outline and the holes. Take the patch off and look at the outline of the hole and the vertical centerline, and mark a horizontal line intersecting with the vertical line at the point where the circle is the widest. This is your pilot hole center point. If you manage to get this within 1/4" of where it is supposed to be, you should be fine.
Thanks a load Bud This video is spot on for someone like me who has next to no DIY experience. I'm sure I'll have no issues with patching the scrubber up first time around. Thanks again.
Hey Bud, Just want to inform anyone that's updated their scrubber using the patches....... it's a doozy! I'm no DIY fan but using your video and and a slight misalignment (due to me moving one of the panels when setting with glue) I manage to attach the kits and also have it up and running the following morning. No drips and no leaks so far! Even more important is that I still have 10 fingers I can see the amount of water using the old Rio pump is more than usual but that's probably due to the light blockers moving the water down instead down and out as what it used to do. It's also the first time I've added a valve on the bottom of the scrubber as before I used a loc line kit and I can no longer hear the splashing of water from the exit after adjusting the valve. Looking at the bottom of the false slot, after adjusting the valve I can see more water throughput going down the valve where before I had algae build up that required constant cleaning. With the false bottom shaped like this, less aglae will be able to get a hold and grow due to constant water movement. Let's see how the scrubber does in a few weeks.
